Simply superb: Sardinia is dotted with lovely beaches and elegant coastal townsThe Aga Khan carved out an exclusive enclave here in the 1960s. And the Costa Smerelda in northern Sardinia has lost none of its allure.
The 34 miles of Mediterranean coastline and sparklingly clear waters attract the boating fraternity. Glossy visitors include Princess Caroline of Monaco, who moors her boat in the marina, Enrique Iglesias, who turns golden on the sandy beaches and Roman Abramovich who is also a big fan.
There are more than 80 bays, rocky coves and white sandy beaches. The season runs from May to September, but the six weeks from mid-July to August are when Costa Smeralda epitomises la dolce vita.
Man-made Porto Cervo, the harbour town and tourist Mecca, is styled after a traditional fishing village. Low buildings built in granite and limestone sparkle in shades of pink, yellow and cream.
All the boutiques sport designer names - Gucci, Armani, Prada. even canine fashionistas are catered for. My Yorkshire terrier Trixie will be the very smartest dog back home in the pink-and-blue polka dot number I bought her.
But, if you're out of pocket, people-watching is the next best thing. Especially from a pavement cafe serving some of the best ice-cream in the world.
A calendar of events draws visitors to the area. The Rally of Sardinia, from July 4-6, is electric. Yachts are festooned with banners. Crowds party. The sound of laughter and popping corks fills the air.
My hotel, the Cala de Volpe, is on the coast outside town and my room overlooking the sea is one below the presidential suite which, at £1,800 a night, is one of the most expensive places in the world to lay your head.
In the hazy distance, from my balcony view, is Tavolara island, a natural marine reserve. Singer-songwriter Peter Gabriel lives nearby.
As dusk falls the air is perfumed by the heady scent of bougainvillea. A party is underway on the lawn. Flavio Briatore, manager of the Renault Formula 1 team, struts through the foyer. He owns the exclusive nightspot, the Billionaire club, which is open for only 40 days in high season. The concierge whispers that he could get me a table anywhere.
Near to the hotel is the 18-hole Pevero golf course, considered one of the most challenging in Italy. This is down to the unpredictable winds that often swirl around the 18-hole, par 72 lay-out.
From starry to simple pleasures, after two nights on the town I head to an 'agritourism' property, a 40-minute drive inland. The road twists and turns with hardly a car to be seen. everywhere is green and most of it uncultivated.
Tenuta Pilastru, in the heart of Gallura, sits in unspoilt countryside. The farmhouse and out buildings-have been converted into a hotel. The contrast with Cala de Volpe couldn't be greater.
